大理的清晨,青翠的蒼山還裹著一層薄霧。洱海邊的步道上,一個年輕人開啟了他的日常。手捧一杯本地產的咖啡,慢悠悠地走著。這杯咖啡的咖啡渣,他不會扔掉,而是帶回農場做堆肥。
In the early morning of Dali, the Cangshan Mountain is still wrapped in a thin layer of mist. On the path by Erhai Lake, a young man has begun his daily routine, holding a cup of locally sourced coffee, strolling along at a leisurely pace. The coffee grounds from this cup won't be thrown away; instead, he'll take them back to the farm to use as compost.
他叫陳派,今年33歲,來自北歐國家瑞典。但在當地人口中,他不是“那個老外”,而是“每天去田里干活的那個奶爸”。
His name is Chen Pai, a 33-year-old from Sweden. But to the locals, he isn't "that foreigner", he's "the dad who goes to work in the fields every day".
從瑞典到云南
十多年前,陳派的人生是另一種樣子。
More than a decade ago, Chen Pai's life was a different story.
21歲在瑞典時,他進入了一家公司。下班回家,打開電視,在熒幕的光亮中消磨掉一天的剩余時間。長此以往,他身體的警報先到了。
When he was 21 and living in Sweden, he started working for a company. After coming home from work, he would turn on the TV and kill the rest of the day in the glow of the screen. However, physical warning signs came before any mental ones.
陳派從小腸胃不好,后來切除了膽囊,慢性胰腺炎反復發作。他開始研究如何活得更健康,于是開始研究自然農耕。
Chen Pai had suffered from digestive issues since childhood, later had his gallbladder removed, and experienced recurring chronic pancreatitis. So he began researching how to live a healthier life, and that led him to explore natural farming.
轉折發生在他遇到妻子之后。他們倆在菲律賓相識,后來他跟著妻子來到中國。2015年他第一次來到云南,去了大理、麗江、康定,那些地方都非常美,但他總記得大理的山和湖。之后他們住在沈陽、青島,但心里始終忘不掉大理的山川河流。2021年,他們舉家搬到了大理。
After meeting his wife in the Philippines and moving to China with her, he first toured Yunnan in 2015. Dali's mountains and lakes left the deepest impression, lingering in their hearts through later stays in Shenyang and Qingdao, until the family finally relocated to Dali in 2021.
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他說:“云南是一個可以慢下來、改善健康的好地方。”
在大理,他幾乎不看電視了。“因為生活太滿了,雙手雙腳都是泥土,根本不需要用屏幕來填補空白。”
"Yunnan is a good place to slow down and improve health," he said.
種地是一種有關
“失敗”的哲學
陳派的農場不算大,他的肥料多數是靠咖啡渣和廚余垃圾發酵出來的堆肥。
Chen Pai's farm is not very big. Most of his fertilizer comes from compost made by fermenting coffee grounds and kitchen waste.
他常說起接觸土地的感覺:“當我們赤腳站在地上或觸摸植物時,我們是在接觸接大地的能量,這對我們的身體有益。”
He often says that being barefoot or touching plants puts us in touch with grounding energies and healthy microbes, which benefit our body.
但種地遠不是赤腳踩泥那么浪漫。
But farming is far from as romantic as just stepping barefoot into the mud.
“失敗,是農耕的另一面。”他說,“你每天都在失敗。總有什么東西在枯萎,什么害蟲來了,什么作物干死了,或者堆肥的材料不對,整批都廢了。”
Failure is the other side of farming. "You fail every day. There's always something withering, some pest coming, some crop drying up, or the compost going bad because the wrong materials were used, and the whole batch is ruined," he said.
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這話不是抱怨,而是一種樸素的接受。日復一日的失敗,反倒讓他學會了另一種心態:“如果你把生活看作一段旅程,每一次失敗都是學習和成長的機會,那你的心態就會完全改變。”
Rather than complaining, he accepts failures as lessons along life's journey, which has transformed his mindset entirely.
他看風向、日照、濕度,這些本事不是從書里學來的,是跟村里的大爺大媽一點一點磨出來的。他笑著說:“我和村里的大爺大媽切磋農技,他們教我種菜,我教他們直播帶貨。”
He learned from villagers to read nature's signs, and now they exchange knowledge — they teach him farming, he teaches them live-streaming.
他把這些日常拍下來,發在自己的社交媒體賬號上,也收獲了不少關注,一個瑞典人,就這么在田里、在土里、在一次次的失敗和收獲中,和這片土地上的人慢慢成了“自己人”。
He films these daily moments and shares them on his social media accounts, gaining quite a following. A Swedish guy out there in the fields, in the soil, through failure after failure and harvest after harvest, slowly becomes "one of them" on this land.
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集市、田野與社區
在熱鬧的集市與真實的鄉土中,陳派重新構建起了“社區”。
Amid the lively markets and the authentic rural life, Chen Pai has rebuilt a sense of "community".
“云南是一個可以慢下來的地方,”他說,“來大理的人通常留在這里,是因為他們想要一種特殊的體驗,想更多地探索、享受戶外,融入一個社區。”
He says Yunnan is good for slowing down and boosting health, and that people come to Dali for unique experiences, outdoor activities, and a sense of community.
在陳派的口中,社區不是一個空洞的標簽,而是具體的。它是集市上那一眼望不到頭的攤位。“種類繁多,這給很多人帶來了快樂。”他說,“這非常有活力,人很多,事很多。”和瑞典小鎮上冷冷清清的兩三個攤位不同,中國的集市讓他感受到一種撲面而來的生機。
In Chen Pai's words, community is not an empty label but something concrete. It is the endless rows of stalls at the market. "There is so much variety, and that brings happiness to a lot of people," he says. "It's very vibrant, so many people, so many things going on." Unlike the quiet two or three stalls in a small Swedish town, the markets in China give him a sense of vitality that feels immediate and alive.
它也是討價還價時那種微妙的你來我往。陳派坦言,這對一個外國人來說有點難:“有時候我去買東西,不知道應不應該還價,如果問了,有人會覺得被冒犯。”但他也慢慢體會到,這種“要自己挑好的”的習慣,正是中國人特有的生活態度。人們喜歡新鮮,喜歡親手選擇,喜歡在集市里“玩”。
Community also lies in the subtle give-and-take of bargaining. Chen Pai admits that this can be a bit difficult for a foreigner: "Sometimes when I go shopping, I don't know if I should bargain or not. If I ask for a lower price, someone might get offended." But over time, he has come to understand that this habit of "picking the good ones oneself" reflects a distinctive Chinese attitude toward life: they like fresh produce, they like to choose with their own hands, and they enjoy the experience of "playing" in the market.
“社區”還指的是那些和他一樣選擇留在大理的人。他說,這里的環境不僅僅指森林和農場,“也包括身邊的人”。來到大理的人,大多是因為想要一種不同的生活——探索自然,享受戶外,然后自然而然地聚在一起。
Community also means the people who, like him, choose to stay in Dali. He says the environment here is not just about forests and farms, "but also the people around you". Most of those who come to Dali do so because they want a different way of life, to explore nature, enjoy the outdoors, and then naturally come together.
他的社區,就在一杯杯本土咖啡中、集市上的吆喝、田埂上的勞作中,一點點編織而成。
His community is woven together, bit by bit, from cups of locally sourced coffee, the cries of market vendors, and the labor in the fields.
有人說,故鄉不是出生的地方,而是你愿意把時間浪費在那里的地方。
陳派顯然找到了。他每天早晨起床,去洱海邊看日出,然后回家陪女兒吃早餐,送她上學,再去田里。下午5點收工,和家人一起吃晚飯。沒有電視,沒有刷不完的短視頻,但有泥土、有風、有孩子的笑聲。
Some say home is not where you were born, but where you choose to spend your time. Chen Pai has clearly found his: he rises for the sunrise at Erhai, has breakfast with his daughter, drops her off at school, then works the fields until 5 pm, when he joins his family for dinner; no TV, no endless scrolling, just soil, wind, and his child's laughter.
他說:“當你在大理生活久了,會發現自己不是在逃避什么,而是在構筑什么。”——也許正是構筑一個心安之處。
"When you've lived in Dali long enough," he says, "you'll realize that you're not running away from something, you're building something." Perhaps building a place where the heart finds peace.
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在費孝通筆下,鄉土社會是“有機的”,人與人、人與土地之間有一種生命節律般的默契。陳派這個瑞典人,在蒼山洱海之間,意外地接通了這種默契。在大理,他早已不是“老外”,而是每天出現在洱海邊的新大理人。從瑞典到云南,他用雙腳重新丈量生活的意義。
In Fei Xiaotong's view, rural society is "organic" — a rhythm of unspoken harmony between people and land. Swedish-born Chen Pai has unexpectedly tuned into that rhythm between Cangshan and Erhai. In Dali, he's no longer a foreigner but a local, seen daily by the lake. From Sweden to Yunnan, he has redefined his life step by step.
記者:李涵萌
實習生: 邱彥頻 于明鑫
跟著China Daily
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